I’ve dreamed of visiting Dyer Island for almost 20 years, since returning to Hermanus back in 1994. Even so, nothing could have prepared me for my experience on Thursday 22 July. It surpassed all expectations and is certainly one of the highlights of my life.
The moment I arrived in Kleinbaai, I was welcomed by the crew at Dyer Island Cruises. After a brief introduction and signing in, I was clad in orange life jacket and oil skin and ushered down to the harbour and on board. Albert was our captain and Michele the marine biologist monitoring whales. Both proved to be gold mines of information.
Albert had barely nosed the bow of the boat out of the harbour when the sea came alive with Southern Right blows. Everywhere! “Blow! Blow! 11 o’clock... another at 9 o’clock....” . A beautiful big seabird hovered overhead, his white underwings luminous - a Subantartic Skua. Suddenly the VHF radio crackled to life: a school of dolphins had been spotted moving fast beyond Dyer Island. The crew scrambled to batten down the hatches. We would have to go full throttle. The mirror surface of the harbour sea was quickly replaced by a tricky wind chop and a bit of swell, which Albert easily navigated - all the while elaborating on the acrobatic aerial displays of swift terns (sadly, the terns weren’t performing in the wind), identifying a Whitechinned Petrel and spotting my first Albatross! With its majestic 2-and-a-half-meter wingspan, the Shy Albatross glided effortlessly over the waves. Breathtaking. On the horizon, the sea churned with spouts and splashes. Albert accelerated and we rollercoasted through the waves..... suddenly we were in the epicentre of what appeared to be over a thousand dolphins, as far as the eye could see. What a privilege! Dorsal fins, flanks and flukes glittered in the sun as the dolphins sped alongside the boat. The characteristic ochre and grey belly and distinct dark eye stripe indicated Delphinus delphis the Common Dolphin (which has been celebrated in art since ancient times and is still inspiring artists...... certainly me!). We would never have been able to tear ourselves away from this spectacle were it not for the Call of the Humpback....not 100 meters from our boat, thirty-odd tonnes of whale arced into the sky as the Humpback breached. By the time i’d clicked my camera shutter, all that remained visible was the underside of its fluke. Although disappointed, this is a valuable ‘fingerprint’ helping marine biologists identify individuals. Another pair of Humpbacks blew in unison and an African Penguin emerged from the oceans depths with a beakful of anchovies. Albert turned the boat back towards the Island. We passed the shark boat, witnessing a four-and-half-meter Great White from our safe bird’s-eye-view! And then it was through the famous ‘Shark Alley’, Cape Fur seals frolicking in the shallows, clapping their flippers like an appreciative audience.
You could have left me stranded there forever. Bliss! 3 hours never flew by so fast. After a bit of homework, discovered that our Shy Albatross, also known as the Bloubekmalmok by locals, breeds on islands around Tasmania and New Zealand and visits our shores in winter.
It’s opened up a whole new world for me to explore.... an albatross on the wing, a shark hunting, penguins ‘porpoising’ on the crest of a wave and dolphins surfing through turquoise seas. Our marine environment is so magnificent, and so few people are privileged to experience it. Paintings might just broaden the net, helping to raise awareness and make people more determined to protect this precious resource.